Sew a Denim Fold‑Over Shoulder Bag from Old Jeans

This bag is designed with a fold‑over flap (that folds down about halfway on the front), includes one or two exterior pockets, plus interior lining with pocket(s), an optional key leash, and a strap you can wear cross‑body or over shoulder. The design balances rugged denim aesthetic with clean finishing.


Finished Dimensions

  • Width (bottom): 12 in (≈30.5 cm)
  • Height (body, not including flap): 10 in (≈25.5 cm)
  • Depth (gusset/bottom): 4 in (≈10 cm)
  • Flap drop (folds down): 6 in (≈15 cm)
  • Strap drop: adjustable; idea is approx 24‑28 in (≈60‑70 cm) when worn cross‐body; you can shorten for shoulder use.

Materials & Tools

ItemWhat to use / sizeNotes
Old jeansOne pair, medium/heavy denim; use areas with large panels (thighs, seat)Use pockets (back/front) etc. for feature details.
Lining fabricCotton duck, canvas, quilting cotton (~½ yd)For lighter lining; if pocket heavy, use stronger fabric.
Fusible interfacingMedium weight for flap and bottom baseAdds structure so bag holds its shape.
ThreadHeavy‐duty denim or polyester thread; contrast color works wellStrong stitches needed for stress points.
Magnetic snap or turn lockOne setFor flap closure. Optional buckle or leather strap.
Strap hardware (optional)Slide adjuster; D‑rings; clasp for key leashFor adjustable strap + internal key tether.
Sewing machine needlesDenim / jeans size (90/14 or higher)For passing through thick layers.
Misc toolsScissors, rotary cutter, ruler, pins or clips, chalk or fabric marker, iron, seam ripperStandard kit.

Pattern Pieces & Cutting

Below are all the pattern pieces you will need. Lay out your denim panels first (old jeans) to decide where to place pockets and panels; pockets you want to reuse should be left intact, or only partially trimmed.

PieceQuantitySize (inches)Source (denim or lining)
Exterior – Front Body Panel112 × 10Denim
Exterior – Back Body Panel112 × 10Denim
Bottom / Base Panel112 × 4Denim
Side Gussets210 × 4Denim
Flap Panel112 × 6Denim
Strap1~ 50 × 2.5 (adjustable)Denim or webbing
Optional Exterior Pocket(s)e.g. 1 back pocket piece, or patch pocket ~ 6×6 inUsing denim pocket or cut from denim
Lining – Front Body112 × 10Lining
Lining – Back Body112 × 10Lining
Lining – Bottom112 × 4Lining
Lining – Side Gussets210 × 4Lining
Flap Lining112 × 6Lining
Interior Pocket1e.g. 6 × 8Lining (optional)
Key Leash Strap1~6 × 1.5Lining or scrap; with D‑ring or clasp

Step‑by‑Step Construction

Step 1: Prepare the Materials

  1. Wash old jeans (if not already washed) to remove shrinkage and dirt.
  2. Remove pocket bags if using them elsewhere; clean up seams.
  3. Cut out all pieces as per the table above. Be careful with matching grain so bag hangs well (denim’s warp/weft matters).
  4. Fuse interfacing:
    • to the bottom/base piece (exterior) to stiffen base.
    • to the flap panel (exterior) to prevent sagging.

Step 2: Exterior First Assembly

  1. Base & Side Gussets: Sew side gussets to the long edges of the base panel. You’ll first attach one side gusset to one long side, then the other; press seams toward gusset or base for neatness.
  2. Front & Back Panels:
    • Sew front body panel to base/gussets: align bottom edge to base’s long edge, sides to side gussets.
    • Then attach back body panel similarly. Now you have a “box” shape.
  3. Add Exterior Pockets & Details
    • If using existing jean back pocket, position it on front body panel. Top align or measure downward (e.g., 2 in from top edge).
    • Patch pockets: hem top edge, topstitch, attach sides and bottom, reinforce corners.
    • Optional: belt loops, rivets, decorative topstitching on flap edges etc.

Step 3: Lining & Interior Work

  1. Construct lining box similarly: attach lining bottom + side gussets + lining front/back panels. Leave top edges open.
  2. Interior Pocket & Key Leash
    • On one lining front/back piece, mark pocket position (e.g. 3 in below top edge, centered or offset). Hem top edge, topstitch, then stitch sides and bottom.
    • For key leash: attach small strap (from scrap) to lining side seam before you assemble lining body; include a D‑ring or clasp at end.

Step 4: Flap

  1. Construct flap: if you want lining in flap, sandwich a piece of lining flap to the exterior flap (right sides together), sew around edges (leave bottom of flap open), turn and press. Otherwise, simply finish raw edges and topstitch.
  2. Add closure hardware:
    • On flap exterior side: attach magnetic snap/turn‑lock.
    • On front body (exterior), measure so that when flap folds down, it meets properly, and attach the matching part of closure.

Step 5: Strap

  1. Strap construction:
    • If making from denim: cut strap piece, fold lengthwise, fold raw edges under or use a folded tube method; topstitch along both edges.
    • If adjustable: install slide adjuster hardware; ends of strap should have reinforced stitching, maybe using small denim accent pieces.

Step 6: Join Exterior & Lining

  1. Insert Strap Ends: Position strap ends on exterior body side seams (inside edge of side gussets), pin or baste in place. Ensure orientation is correct, no twist.
  2. Assemble Exterior + Lining:
    • Exterior right side out; lining inside‑out.
    • Insert exterior into lining so that exterior’s right side touches lining’s right side; strap ends sandwiched between.
    • Align top edges and side seams, clip/pin all around.
  3. Sew Top Edge: Sew around top edge with seam allowance (~½ in); catch all layers.
  4. Turn Bag: Pull right side through opening (or pull exterior through lining if leaving lining inside‑out). Push lining into body; press top edge flat.
  5. Close Lining Gap: If you left a gap in lining (for turning or positioning), hand‑stitch or machine‑stitch it closed invisibly.

Step 7: Finishing Touches

  1. Topstitching: Topstitch around top edge ~¼ in from edge to stabilize, give clean finish. Topstitch flap perimeter and optionally bottom‑front base seam.
  2. Edge Treatment: Trim any bulky seam allowances; if needed, grade seams or trim corners to reduce bulk at side bottom corners.
  3. Test & Adjust: Hang strap, test closure flap, check if bag holds shape. If flap is saggy, you can add an extra interfacing or thin stabilizer.

Design Variations & Custom Options

  • Size Adjustment: Want the bag larger for laptop? Increase width to 14‑16 in, depth to 5‑6 in; flap proportionally longer.
  • Closure Variations: Instead of magnetic snap, use buckle straps, leather straps, a zipper under the flap (for extra security).
  • Decoration: Embroidery, patches, painted denim, contrast stitching.
  • Mixed Denim Shades: Use different parts of jeans (lighter / darker) for front vs. back vs. flap.
  • Multi‑Compartment Inner Lining: Add zipper pocket, multiple slip pockets, or even a removable insert.
  • Alternate Strap Styles: Use chain, leather, webbing; or add hardware to detach strap so it can convert to clutch style.

Care Instructions

  • Spot clean as much as possible; denim can bleed, so wash inside out in cold water if needed.
  • Use mild detergent; avoid harsh bleach.
  • Air dry or tumble low heat; reshape while damp for bag to hold form.
  • Store stuffed (newspaper or soft fabric) so it keeps shape, especially flap.

Summary

By following this pattern and guide, you’ll turn old jeans into a stylish fold‑over shoulder or cross‑body bag — fully lined, with pockets inside and out, and a sturdy strap. The flap adds functionality and aesthetic interest; the lining and finishing give polish; the reuse gives sustainability.

Video tutorial:

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