How to Crochet a “November” Hooded Sweater for Children

Hello, fellow makers! As the air turns crisp and the leaves begin to fall, there’s nothing cozier than wrapping a little one in a warm, handmade sweater. I’m excited to share this detailed pattern for the November Hooded Sweater, a classic top-down raglan that’s perfect for chilly days. This project is a fantastic way to create a cherished, one-of-a-kind garment that is as practical as it is adorable.

The beauty of this sweater lies in its construction. We’ll start at the top, working the hood and yoke as a single piece. The raglan design means there’s no complicated seaming, and the top-down approach allows you to try it on as you go, ensuring a perfect fit. The simple double crochet stitch gives the sweater a soft drape, while the ribbed cuffs and hem add a touch of professional polish. Let’s grab our hooks and yarn and get ready to create something beautiful!

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Why You’ll Love Crocheting This Sweater:

• No Seams: The top-down raglan design means the entire body is worked in one piece.
• Customizable Fit: Easily adjust the size and length as you crochet to fit any child.
• Practical & Cozy: The hood adds extra warmth, making this a perfect layer for autumn and winter.
• Skill-Building: You’ll practice working in the round, creating raglan increases, and making ribbed stitches.

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What You’ll Need:

• Yarn: DK weight (#3) or Worsted weight (#4) yarn. Approximately 400-600 yards, depending on the size you are making.
• Crochet Hook: A 4.0mm crochet hook for the main body and a 3.5mm hook for the ribbed sections.
• Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): For weaving in all loose ends.
• Scissors:
• Stitch Markers: Four stitch markers to mark the raglan corners.

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Essential Crochet Abbreviations:

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half-double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• FPdc: front post double crochet
• BPdc: back post double crochet
• st(s): stitch(es)
• inc: increase (2 stitches in the same stitch)
• FO: fasten off

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The Pattern: The November Hooded Sweater

This sweater is worked from the top down, starting with the hood. The size is based on average children’s measurements; you can adjust by adding or subtracting rows.

Part 1: The Hood

1. Foundation: Ch 54 (or until your chain measures approximately 14 inches / 35 cm, or the desired depth of the hood).
2. Row 1: Dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (52 sts)
3. Rows 2-20: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Dc in each st across. Repeat for 19 more rows, or until your hood panel measures approximately 8 inches / 20 cm in height.

Part 2: Joining the Hood and Creating the Yoke

1. Hood Seam: Fold the hood panel in half. Sl st the top edge together to form a seam. FO.
2. Neckline: Reattach your yarn at the bottom front corner of the hood.
3. Round 1 (Neckline): Work a row of sc stitches evenly around the entire hood opening. You should aim for a stitch count that is a multiple of 4, plus 4. (For example, 40 stitches for a smaller size, 44, 48, etc.) Sl st to the first sc to join the round.
4. Marking Corners: Place a stitch marker in the 1st stitch, and then every 11 stitches after that. (Or divide your total stitch count by 4). The markers will designate the four raglan increase points.
5. Round 2 (Yoke): Ch 2, dc in the same st. Dc in each st until you reach the first stitch marker. At the stitch marker, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) in the marked stitch. Repeat this increase pattern at each stitch marker. Dc to the end of the round. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 2 to join.
6. Round 3: Ch 2. Dc in each st around, making sure to work (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) in each ch 1 sp from the previous round.
7. Repeat Round 3 until your yoke measures approximately 5-7 inches / 13-18 cm from the neck. The width of the yoke should be wide enough to comfortably fit around the chest, under the armpit.

Part 3: Separating for Body and Sleeves

1. Next Round: Ch 2, dc in each st until you reach the first corner ch 1 sp. Dc 1 in the ch 1 sp.
2. Armhole: Ch 2 (or more, depending on your gauge, to create a comfortable underarm gap). Sk all stitches until you reach the next corner ch 1 sp. Dc 1 in the ch 1 sp.
3. Body: Dc in each st until you reach the next corner. Dc 1 in the ch 1 sp. Ch 2. Sk all stitches until you reach the last corner ch 1 sp. Dc 1 in the ch 1 sp.
4. Dc in each st until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 2 to join.

Part 4: The Body

1. Next Round: Ch 2, dc in each st around, including the stitches you chained in the armpit. Sl st to join.
2. Repeat this round until the body of the sweater reaches your desired length.
3. Bottom Hem (Ribbed): Switch to your 3.5mm hook. Ch 2, and work (FPdc 1, BPdc 1) in each st around. Sl st to join. Repeat this row for 3-5 rows.

Part 5: The Sleeves

1. Joining: Join your yarn in the center of one of the underarm ch 2 spaces.
2. Round 1: Ch 2, dc 1 in the same space. Work dc in each stitch around the armhole, including the stitches you skipped. Sl st to join.
3. Tapering (Optional): Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st to join. Every 5-8 rounds, work a dc decrease to taper the sleeve.
4. Cuffs (Ribbed): Once the sleeve reaches the desired length, switch to your 3.5mm hook. Ch 2, and work (FPdc 1, BPdc 1) in each st around. Sl st to join. Repeat for 3-5 rows.
5. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Part 6: Finishing Touches

1. Weave in all loose ends.
2. Block your sweater if desired.

Congratulations, you’ve created a beautiful and unique November Hooded Sweater! Happy hooking!

Video tutorial: